The control cables are now routed correctly down to the back end.
As there's not much work about just now, I've been able to get on fairly quick with the rebuild. I would have been even further along if our hot water tank hadn't given up the ghost and needed replacing! That set me back a couple of days.
This shows me doing up the rear end connections of the control cables, clutch, gears and what have you. All quite fiddly and quite difficult to eliminate any backlash from the cables.
I remember from when I was 16yrs old, (that's some memory), having lots of problems with the little trunions and 3mm Allen grub screws that clamp the cables into their operating links.
The brass bit in the middle is the trunion. Having bought new ones, I find they come with a tiny steel disc about 3mm diameter that sits on top of the cable. This prevents the grub screw cutting or damaging it. Never heard of those in the 60's, no wonder we had so much trouble keeping cables tight.
Now where does this bit go? Oh hang on, it's the knackered hot water tank!!
Ok that's them all done up. I've since noticed one of the gear cable outers had slipped out of its housing in the headstock. No wonder I can't select 1st gear. Not to worry, I'll adjust it later, I'm too close to starting the engine to stop now.
Round t'other side that's the carb fitted and connected. I stripped the carb and cleaned the jets as it has been sat on the shelf for about 6 months. The new fast flow fuel tap seems OK and I've added an inline fuel filter just for good measure. With the new fuel tank, tap and filter I should get away with having to clear the fuel jets every five minutes as before.
That's the choke lever on the left, up for off down for on. The right hand one is the fuel tap, up for off, horizontal for on, fully down for reserve fuel.
Here's a not very interesting photo showing the choke cable (the top one) with it's stainless steel guide for keeping other cables away from the hot cylinder cowling.
Note the original aluminium cable tie round the frame. I thought I'd use these instead of modern plastic ones for a bit of authenticity. I bought 6 in accordance with the Scooter Restorations parts catalogue but find I need about 12. OK so I now have a mix of the old and new.
Back on the deck. I wonder what I'll do with the mobile work stand when the scooter is finished?
After all the work and expense fitting the new kickstart shaft (and other K/S bits) it seems sensible to fit the kickstart lever. I have to say, it fits snugly onto the new splines.
I put a litre of juice in just to see if it will start. No sign of any leaks from the new fuel pipes or carb, it's getting close to engine start time now.
It took a while to get the fuel through but it sounds good with a nice even tick-over. I can't wait to get on the open road and let loose the whole 9.38 horse-power!!
Note: There should be a video of me starting the engine above here. It doesn't seen to play on Ipads or tablets but is OK on laptops and PC's for some reason.
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